Exfoliating Skin Cleansing Products
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Acid-based exfoliants interact immediately with the skin and dissolve dead cells. These utilize beta-hydroxy acid (or salicylic acid) and alpha-hydroxy acids. Under the AHA banner are glycolic acid (derived from sugarcane), citric acid, lactic acid (from milk), and fruit enzymes. Whether in the form of a gel, cream, lotion, or even a cleanser, all of these chemicals basically produce a slight chemical peel. That's why many products are labeled "peel treatment," "retexturizing peel," or "peel pads," (acid-soaked pads that you swipe over your face, then follow with another neutralizing pad containing moisturizing ingredients).
Salicylic acid is definitely the exfoliant of choice for someone with oily or acne-prone skin. Because, unlike AHAs, salicylic acid is oil soluble, it's able to unglue a keratin plug and penetrate through the sebum to the lining of the pore, releasing some of the oil and bacteria before it can cause acne. It also has anti-inflammatory properties (since it's derived from a compound similar to aspirin).
For someone with very dry or sensitive skin, lactic acid is the best and gentlest option, since citric, fruit, and glycolic acids can be too harsh. But read the label carefully. Sometimes a product contains many different kinds of acids, which together can be far too strong. As a general rule, if a product contains more than three acid substances, it could potentially be irritating.
Simple Skin Beauty: Every Woman's Guide to a Lifetime of Healthy, Gorgeous Skin
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Your skin type can determine whether you will benefit from exfoliating your skin. For example, if you have flaky skin, dermatologists suggest that exfoliating once a week is sufficient. However, you wouldn't want to exfoliate your skin when you have acne breakouts. Consult a dermatologist for more information about exfoliation.
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Because exfoliating scrubs are designed to remove the outermost layer of your skin, they're abrasive by nature. Instead of using a scrub, try using a mild exfoliating cleanser followed by a moisturizer. You should get similar, though not as dramatic, results without the pain.
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Beta-hydroxy acid, or salicylic acid, is used for exfoliation purposes, to help dissolve the proteins that hold surface skin cells together and slough them away. Beta-hydroxy acid is also unique because it is able to penetrate into the oily regions of the skin, providing extra exfoliation in these areas. Salicylic acid is frequently used in the treatment of acne for this reason. When added to a moisturizer, salicylic acid has been shown to reduce sebum production by the skin. Beta-hydroxy acid can also be beneficial to aging skin, as it helps with skin cell turnover, revealing fresh skin cells and a smoother complexion.
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To exfoliate, begin with a gentle process and move from head to toe. Products that are papaya-based and contain alpha-hydroxy and salycilic acid compounds are the best to remove dead skin cells, and promote collagen renewal for healthy new spring skin cells.
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If you have rosacea, exfoliation is not recommended, as the skin is already red, irritated, inflamed, and may have papules or pustules (bumps or white heads). Also, avoid exfoliating if you have acne with pustules on the skin. If an exfoliating ingredient breaks the thin membrane covering the pustule, bacteria can travel to other areas of the face and body and spread the acne. This can be extremely painful, too. If you have a tendency for acne but no pustules are present, try using either BHA (salicylic acid) or AHA (lactic acid, glycolic acid) when you exfoliate to help heal the skin.
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Cosmeceutical products often contain a low concentration of skin-exfoliating agents such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, and salicylic acid, which promote the shedding of dead skin cells to maintain the skin’s youthful and smooth complexion. The skin-exfoliating agents work very effectively in the loosening of the dead cells of the stratum corneum and on acne-prone skin with plugged pores and dry, flaky skin.
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Gentle grains like sugar, oatmeal, or small synthetic beads can be found in common exfoliating products you can use once or twice weekly, depending on the sensitivity of your skin. Exfoliation is a practice that requires experimentation. Some people can tolerate the more abrasive products while others need more gentle formulas that won’t leave skin red and irritated. On the one hand, you’re scrubbing away dead, dulling cells to stimulate new cell growth and reveal that healthy, fresh glow. But on the other hand, you’re doing just that: semi sanding your face! Finding the balance here is key. If you want a more aggressive approach to exfoliation, you can schedule a visit to a dermatologist for a glycolic peel or microdermabrasion. Many have medical assistants or aestheticians in their offices who do these treatments daily.
From The Mind-Beauty Connection: 9 Days to Less Stress, Gorgeous Skin, and a Whole New You by Amy Wechsler.
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Exfoliant creams can help remove dead skin cells to reveal newer, smoother skin underneath. To learn more about exfoliants, watch this video featuring Dr. Oz and dermatologist Dr. Jeannette Graf.
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Exfoliants remove dead cells from the skin. Exfoliation can be done mechanically by washing with a washcloth or a loofah pad, or it can be done chemically by a variety of creams. There is nothing magical about exfoliants; they simply remove the upper layer of dead epidermis, resulting in cleaner skin with less acne. Too much exfoliation can result in irritation.
