Exfoliating Skin Cleansing Products

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• QIs exfoliating different for men than it is for women?

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  A Dr. Mehmet Oz, MD , Cardiology (Cardiovascular Disease), answered

  Your skin type can determine whether you will benefit from exfoliating your skin. For example, if you have flaky skin, dermatologists suggest that exfoliating once a week is sufficient. However, you wouldn't want to exfoliate your skin when you have acne breakouts. Consult a dermatologist for more information about exfoliation.
  
  
  
• QWhy do some exfoliating cleansers cause discomfort?

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  A Dr. Mehmet Oz, MD , Cardiology (Cardiovascular Disease), answered

  Because exfoliating scrubs are designed to remove the outermost layer of your skin, they're abrasive by nature. Instead of using a scrub, try using a mild exfoliating cleanser followed by a moisturizer. You should get similar, though not as dramatic, results without the pain.

• QWhat do beta-hydroxy acids do?

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  A Dr. Mehmet Oz, MD , Cardiology (Cardiovascular Disease), answered

  Beta-hydroxy acid, or salicylic acid, is used for exfoliation purposes, to help dissolve the proteins that hold surface skin cells together and slough them away. Beta-hydroxy acid is also unique because it is able to penetrate into the oily regions of the skin, providing extra exfoliation in these areas. Salicylic acid is frequently used in the treatment of acne for this reason. When added to a moisturizer, salicylic acid has been shown to reduce sebum production by the skin. Beta-hydroxy acid can also be beneficial to aging skin, as it helps with skin cell turnover, revealing fresh skin cells and a smoother complexion.

• QWhat is chemical exfoliation?

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  A Dr. Ellen S. Marmur, MD , Dermatology, answered

  Acid-based exfoliants interact immediately with the skin and dissolve dead cells. These utilize beta-hydroxy acid (or salicylic acid) and alpha-hydroxy acids. Under the AHA banner are glycolic acid (derived from sugarcane), citric acid, lactic acid (from milk), and fruit enzymes. Whether in the form of a gel, cream, lotion, or even a cleanser, all of these chemicals basically produce a slight chemical peel. That's why many products are labeled "peel treatment," "retexturizing peel," or "peel pads," (acid-soaked pads that you swipe over your face, then follow with another neutralizing pad containing moisturizing ingredients).
  Salicylic acid is definitely the exfoliant of choice for someone with oily or acne-prone skin. Because, unlike AHAs, salicylic acid is oil soluble, it's able to unglue a keratin plug and penetrate through the sebum to the lining of the pore, releasing some of the oil and bacteria before it can cause acne. It also has anti-inflammatory properties (since it's derived from a compound similar to aspirin).
  For someone with very dry or sensitive skin, lactic acid is the best and gentlest option, since citric, fruit, and glycolic acids can be too harsh. But read the label carefully. Sometimes a product contains many different kinds of acids, which together can be far too strong. As a general rule, if a product contains more than three acid substances, it could potentially be irritating.
  
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• QWhat are some good products for exfoliating my skin?

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  A Dr. Susan Evans , Dermatology, answered

  To exfoliate, begin with a gentle process and move from head to toe. Products that are papaya-based and contain alpha-hydroxy and salycilic acid compounds are the best to remove dead skin cells, and promote collagen renewal for healthy new spring skin cells.
• QWhen should I avoid exfoliating my skin?

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  A Ben Kaminsky , Dermatology, answered

  If you have rosacea, exfoliation is not recommended, as the skin is already red, irritated, inflamed, and may have papules or pustules (bumps or white heads). Also, avoid exfoliating if you have acne with pustules on the skin. If an exfoliating ingredient breaks the thin membrane covering the pustule, bacteria can travel to other areas of the face and body and spread the acne. This can be extremely painful, too. If you have a tendency for acne but no pustules are present, try using either BHA (salicylic acid) or AHA (lactic acid, glycolic acid) when you exfoliate to help heal the skin.
• QWhat are some exfoliating agents that can be found in cosmeceuticals?

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  A Ben Kaminsky , Dermatology, answered

  Cosmeceutical products often contain a low concentration of skin-exfoliating agents such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, and salicylic acid, which promote the shedding of dead skin cells to maintain the skin’s youthful and smooth complexion. The skin-exfoliating agents work very effectively in the loosening of the dead cells of the stratum corneum and on acne-prone skin with plugged pores and dry, flaky skin.
• QWhat's a good way to exfoliate my skin?

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  A Dr. Neal B. Schultz, MD , Dermatology, answered

  Chemical exfoliation is far superior to physical exfoliation. Chemical exfoliants dissolve the accumulated, dead, dulling, clogging cells. Glycolic acid is the gold standard of chemical exfoliants and works best when pH-adjusted and buffered. It should be used if not daily then at least regularly, depending upon your goal of exfoliation, whether it's facial rejuvenation or control and prevention of acne. Gentle physical exfoliation with granular exfoliants, in my view, only has a role in reduction of pore size when accompanied by appropriate chemical exfoliation.

  With chemical exfoliation, the amount of exfoliation that you get (the results you get) is proportional only to the strength of that acid. It has nothing to do with the amount of the product that you put on the skin, or on the amount of the time that you leave it there. So, when you put the product on the skin, regardless of how thick it is, because it is only the thin layer in contact with the surface that is doing what you want it to do. Regardless of that, or how you leave it here, because you actually want it to be absorbed into the skin, you get predictable, precise depth of exfoliation and therefore, results. However, with physical exfoliants, the depth of exfoliation that you get, depends on three things. It depends on how strongly you actually exfoliate, in other words, how strongly you rub. It also depends on how long you do it, and what the actual material is that you’re using. The other issue with chemical vs. physical exfoliants is that you get far fewer side effects with chemical exfoliants, because if you can have an irritation with a chemical--first you get a little flaking, then a little irritation, and you see it coming. You feel that something is wrong long before you get a raw, red area. But, with physical exfoliants, it seems to be that people tend to think that if a little is good, more is better, which frequently leads to irritation and even bleeding.

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• QHow can an exfoliant make my skin look younger?

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  A Dr. Shirley M. Madhere, MD , Plastic Surgery, answered

  You don't need a facelift to look a little younger. In this video, plastic and reconstructive surgeon Dr. Shirley Madhere discusses the age-defying benefits of exfoliation.

  
  

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• QHow are exfoliants used in skin care?

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  A Dr. Arthur W. Perry, MD , Cosmetic Surgery, answered

  Exfoliants remove dead cells from the skin. Exfoliation can be done mechanically by washing with a washcloth or a loofah pad, or it can be done chemically by a variety of creams. There is nothing magical about exfoliants; they simply remove the upper layer of dead epidermis, resulting in cleaner skin with less acne. Too much exfoliation can result in irritation.